A week-long Jeju Travel Guide

This summer, I was able to finally cross Jeju off my Korea bucketlist. Jeju has always been marketed as the no. 1 tourist destination in Korea and rightly so because of the natural beauty of its landscape. It's an island get-away from the hustle and bustle of the City of Seoul. Jeju has been recommended by my Korean friends and I thought it was overrated since they described Jeju as some sort of paradise. Mind you, I came from the Philippines which has 7, 107 majestic islands so you can say my expectations were quite high when it comes to islands and beaches. That's when I decided I just had to see Jeju for myself and be personally charmed by the island's famous attractions.



I was lucky to choose my travel date when Summer's at its peak and the weather was perfect. The whole week was bright and sunny but not burning hot compared to humid Seoul. The best part, I was surprised that there weren't much tourists during that week so I was able to roam around freely without the hassle of overcrowded tourist spots and fully-booked accommodations. My travel date was from August 18-23 and I got my round trip ticket on sale for only 77,000 won. It pays to be on the look-out for seat sales and I would recommend subscribing to updates from airlines such as Jejuair, T-Airways and East Star Jet. Well, if you're too lazy to do that, there's always Skyscanner application, the coolest app for booking flights. This trip was booked on impulse with only four days before the travel date, no planned itinerary and without my usual squad to drag along with.

Now that you've book you're flight, the next thing would be to plan your itinerary well. Jeju may look like a small island off coast but it is actually big and transportation is not as easy as you think. Since I was crazy to travel alone, I couldn't rent a car because (1) it costs a lot of money and (2) I don't have a license which makes sense since (3) I have no idea how to drive. Needless to say, I was stuck with public transportation. But if you're not as "adventurous" as me, the most practical way to explore the entire island is by renting a car and just have fun doing a road trip to remember with your best buddies. You see, there is no subway in the island and the main mode of transportation are buses and taxis. Getting from one tourist spot to the next takes about an hour or so depending on where you're departing from.

I would say three days would be the minimum itinerary required to make the most out of Jeju. Since I wasn't in a rush, a whole week was just enough for me to see the most iconic spots in the island. If you're short of time, I would recommend figuring which part of Jeju would you really like to see. Most blogs and travel agencies promote the North-South route but for me, the East and West side has a lot more to offer in terms of natural seascapes and mountain trails. I divided my week into two parts; half of the week for exploring the East-West side and the remaining days for the North-South part.

Another thing to keep in mind is that Jeju is not for the faint-hearted. It sounds exaggerated but I'm not kidding when I tell you that I've done more exercise in my entire trip in Jeju that I've ever did in my whole stay in Korea or in my life, haha. I never liked walking but I took thousands of steps, hiked five different mountain summits, followed seemingly-infinite trails and biked an entire island during my trip. Jeju forced me to experience nature at it's very best as I took a closer look at what it has to offer. I wasn't disappointed as I marveled at Jeju's distinct charm enchanting both locals and tourists alike.

It can be overwhelming to choose from the numerous different attractions Jeju has to offer. For my trip, I tried my best to include as many diverse locations as possible ranging from mountains and sea side to heritage sites and unique museums.

There are two main bus terminals in Jeju, one is Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal for those who are staying in Jeju City and another one is Seogwipo Bus terminal if you're coming from the Southern part. Since I stayed in the middle of Jeju City, my itinerary always started from Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal. My accommodation was only 15 minutes away both from the airport and the bus terminal. You don't really have to worry much about navigating your way since the terminals indicate the main tourist attractions that the bus route takes so you just have to tell the counter where you're headed or look for the corresponding bus number that passes along your chosen location. If you're using T-money (electronic transportation card available in convenience stores in Korea), you have to tell the bus driver the exact location where you're going as soon as you ride the bus since fare varies depending on the distance. If you don't have T-money, just buy ticket directly from the counter using cash.

East-West Route

My first day was devoted to trekking inside Manjanggul Cave and biking the entire Udo Island. You can access both locations through the same bus 990 departing from Jeju City Terminal. After alighting from the Manjanggul Cave bus stop, your best option is to ride a taxi all the way to the cave entrance since it's not really a walking distance. Aside from being a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Manjanggul Cave boasts of a view of stalagmites and stalactites formed from lava flow. Since it was Summer,it was the perfect opportunity to walk inside the kilometer-long cool tunnel. The air coming from the cave was so refreshing it felt like you're inside a gigantic refrigerator.











After Manjanggul Cave, my next stop was the island of Udo. I'd recommend spending at least half a day to explore Udo since that island is a miniature version of Jeju and there are several options offered depending on how much time you've got. The last ferry ride back to Jeju is at 6:30 p.m. The round-trip ferry ride costs 5,500 won. It takes about a 20-minute ferry ride to reach the island and once you reach it, you can decide on your mode of transport. There are ATVs, bicycles and motorbikes for rent. You won't see much if you take the bus since Udo is really designed to be explored using the beach-side trail. Bike rent costs only 5,000 for three hours while the scooters are 15,000 for two hours. Udo has a trail stretching over the entire island so you just have to follow it to reach the several tourist attractions such as the beaches and the lighthouse. I chose to bike the entire island and it took me about three hours (on a leisurely pace) to complete the trail while stopping to take pictures along the way and trying Jeju's famous black pork burger. The 13-km long beach-side road was just perfect for my biking adventure but of course, it required a lot of effort and stamina since the trail is not exactly as easy as you may think. You also have to take precaution due to the passing buses and cars along the trail. But aside from that, I enjoyed my biking tour along Udo. I never imagined I could actually finish the biking course since I wasn't prepared at all for such a physical adventure. I was even wearing a summer dress and a sandal so yeah, you can just imagine how many people have probably seen my underwear during my windy bike tour. If you love those cliche' scenes in movies where you see the character happily biking along a seaside with the wind gently blowing against her face without a care in the world, then you get a picture of what to expect in Udo. The best thing about Udo is that as you make your way along the course, you get the perfect view of the clear sea and blue skies. It's miles and miles of blues and greens and if you get tired, there's always restaurants and cafes along the trail.























I just got back in time for the last ferry ride and decided to call it a day. I was too exhausted after the bike tour anyway so I headed back to the city. Travel time from Jeju city and Udo bus stop is almost two hours.
My adventure continues the next day with the Eastern most part of Jeju. I took the same bus as yesterday since it's on the same route. Seongsan Ilchulbong 성산일출봉 Peak and Sopjikoji are today's schedule. Seongsan Ilchulbong is near the ferry terminal from Udo so if you can manage, you can go directly from Udo to Seongsan Ilchulbong. You can take the bus which would take just a few stops away then just take a 15-minute taxi ride all the way to Sopjikoji.

Seongsan Ilchulbong is famous for the sunrise view and requires hiking to reach the peak with an estimated 50-minute time frame. Of course, I was never a morning person so I wasn't able to catch the sunrise, but I started my hike late in the afternoon so it wasn't too hot and a cool mountain breeze was blowing. There's an entrance of 2,000 and the last admission is around 6 p.m.

Being another UNESCO World Heritage Site, the peak offers a majestic view of the surrounding islands and was simply breath-taking (aside from the fact that I was almost out of breath after reaching the summit, lol)





























































If you've seen those movies like Anne in Green Gables, Seongsan Ilchulbong has the same kind of green vibes against the lush mountain tops. Another attraction for this spot are is the diving show of old women which is a traditional part of Jeju's own unique culture. The ahjummas (해녀) aged over 60 and nicknamed Jeju's mermaid goes out to the sea for the day's catch.

After Seongsan Ilchulbong, I headed straight to Sopjikoji 섭지코지, my favorite among my itinerary. There was a slight drizzle so I was so happy when the usual flock of tourists decided to head back to their tour buses leaving me alone to see the entire view as soon as the light rain stopped after 20 mins. I hiked all the way to the lighthouse and saw the famous rock formation in the seaside. When you reach the hill, you can see the gigantic stone called Hyeopjayeondae standing stubbornly against the backdrop of the cliff and ocean. The stairway leading to the hilltop reminds me of a lot of scenes from the Lord of the Rings no wonder this attraction was chosen as countless filming sites. 

















































North-South Route

Third day was dedicated to Jeju Jungmun Tourist Resort Complex 중문관광단지 exploring three different waterfalls, Ripley's Believe It or Not Museum and Chocolate Land. From Jeju Bus Terminal, it takes about an hour by bus to reach the complex or you also have the option of taking the airport limousine bus from from the airport terminal. The resort offers various attractions all in one place coupled with popular hotels and beaches. Entrance fee depends on each attraction. There are three waterfalls inside the complex the most famous of which is Cheonjeyeon, entrance fee is 2, 500 to reach the stunning Seonimgyo Bridge and the three waterfalls. The bridge was named after 7 nymphs while the three waterfalls offers crystal-clear blue water cool enough to refresh you after a hot summer day. If you've seen the movie the Little Mermaid, then feel free to imitate Ariel and pretend to wait for your prince. 












































Inside the resort is the Teddy Bear, Play KPOP, and Alive Museum but since those museums are also present in Seoul, I decided to skip them and go instead to Ripley's Believe It or Not (10,000 entrance) and Chocolate Land (2, 500 entrance).



My type of ride!









































Jeju chocolate is a must-try on your visit. You can choose from a variety of flavors such as green tea, orange and cactus. My personal favorite is the hallabong flavor since it's what Jeju is actually famous for. Hoarding a stock of chocolate is one of the highlights of my trip and entering Chocolateland gives you a discount on your purchase. The best way to my heart is through chocolate so you can guess how happy I was seeing the vast collection of confectionery from all over the world. 



















Plus, I had a surprise meeting with Pikachu inside Chocolate land! Who says Pokemongo doesn't work in Korea? It turns out, you just have to go to Jeju to hunt Pokemon, lol!






After touring the resort, I took a trip to Osulloc. The easiest way to reach the green tea museum from the resort is through a 30-minute taxi ride costing around 12, 000 won. Osulloc is one of Jeju's famous tourist spot known for its vast green tea field producing quality products not only limited to teas but also includes ice-cream, cakes, and even cosmetics and soaps. It's a green tea heaven for those matcha fans. Inside the museum, there was an SNS promotion where you just have to take a photo against the green tea field backdrop and upload it to your Instagram or Fb with the Osulloc hashtag and you get a special gift so take advantage, lol. Even if you're not really a fan of green tea, Osulloc is still worth visiting since you get a glimpse of a bigger green tea plantation located in Boseong, Gwangju, also a famous tourist destination. 















The next day required an advanced reservation to Geomun Oreum (거문오름 [세계자연유산]), another UNESCO World Heritage Site and a protected plant sanctuary and mountain trail. There's an entrance fee of 2, 500 and you have to book at least a day in advanced through phone or their website. Only those with reservation would be accommodated since the first part is a guided tour. Excluding Tuesdays, the trails are open from 9:00 AM to 12:30 PM in 30 minute intervals. It's mandatory to wear hiking shoes and only water is allowed for the tour, umbrellas and walking stick must be left in the information center. If you happen to not be wearing shoes like me, (yeah, I was totally unprepared again for hiking), you can rent hiking shoes (3, 000) and buy socks (2, 000)  in the center so don't worry. Honestly, I never thought I would actually hike this much in Jeju, hahaha. This summit has to be the most difficult trek incomparable to any mountain I've hiked in Korea. There's no cable car option so brace yourself for infinite staircases and thousands of steps.



It's a protected ecological terrain where thousands of species of trees can be found but aside from that, there was nothing in particular in the mountain. Well, maybe it's because I'm not a plant expert so I didn't find anything special in the leaves pattern. My entire almost 4 hour hike consisted of endless forest trails. There are four courses to choose from:
1) Jeongsang Course: About 1.8km / 1 hour
2) Bunhwagu Course: About 5.5km / 2 hour 30 minute
3) Neungseon Course: About 5km / 2 hours
4) Taeguek-gil Course: About 10km / 3 hours 30 minute


















Since I was already in the mountain and I didn't want to waste my effort in climbing, I decided to complete the hardest trail. The first 2 hours was a guided tour but since I was the only foreigner in the group, I had no choice but to join the Korean tour. Korean's are expert hikers so it's no wonder they find the trails easy. There were only 15 of us and I didn't want to be a burden so I tried my best to understand everything in Korean but it was mostly about the history of the secret caves where Japanese soldiers used to hide, the special plants which enables cool air ventilation, soil structures that hold water when there's a heavy downpour and the unique reason why it was chosen as one of Jeju's 7 Wonders. 

After two hours of guided tour, the group was split depending on the trail that each member wants to take so we were left on our own to navigate our way back to the center. I was filled with mixed emotion as I'm the only one headed towards one of the trail. I was alone on the entire mountain so it felt liberating but scary as well since anything can happen on your way back. Yeah, you can now imagine how crazy I am after deciding to challenge myself in trekking the trails alone. I didn't notice the time passing as I concentrated in trying to navigate the never-ending path. I wasn't worried in being lost since I only had to follow the specified trail but I still had to be careful with the steep slopes and climbing the staircases. And no, I'm not exaggerating this time when I say that it is an exhausting experience requiring sheer determination and will especially if you're alone; you cannot afford to get injured since no one's there to track you in the middle of that dense forest. You don't have any option except to reach the center safely. And yes, I was happy to survive that trek though it took me a lot of time. It was an experience I would always remember since it taught me how brave I can be and measured not only my physical strength but more importantly my mental stamina. Yeah the pictures doesn't do justice on how disheveled I look after hiking, hahaha. If you ask me about which movie scene I can compare this to, it would be Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz. 






















With the little strength I had left from hiking, I decided to go back to the city and just visit Jeju Loveland to replenish my energy. From Jeju Bus Terminal, it only takes 20 minutes by bus to reach Loveland. Since the theme park isn't your ordinary family attraction, you have to be at least 20 years old to enter and has a 9,000 won entrance fee. Imagine my frustration as I got carded again for looking like a minor, good thing I was carrying my ARC to prove I'm not one of those curious high school teenagers with raging hormones. I would let the pictures speak for themselves on what you can actually see inside the park. I'm imagining my friends would have a field day seeing the "big, hard, and mind-blowing" sculptures (no pun intended).





















I apologize to my minor readers for this rather explicit part of the post but if you're interested in things that you have to learn once you become an adult then the museum can probably help you in that aspect. The park was actually intended to present tabooed sexual content by adding a touch of artistic side, humor and educational value. Based on my research, the sculptures were made by Hongik University Art students and I can only applaud them for their imagination. The funny thing was although I went alone, a group of ahjummas and ahjussis went in at the same time so I was a bit flustered (as seen from my shocked expressions) to appreciate the sculptures, lol. It got more awkward when we got inside the museum where various"toys" where exhibited and they started laughing in what I can only tell as inside jokes beyond my comprehension.








































Being the teacher that I am and (considering my natural propensity for learning), I took the opportunity to learn as much as possible from the experience, hahaha, Needless to say, it was a visually-enriching tour but better enjoyed with a companion, lol.

Fifth day was the last day so I decided to just take things easy and just took a stroll in a nearby beach in front of my pension. If you're also staying in Jeju City, I would suggest going to Heandoro seaside which has a coffee shop lined-street or the Yeongduam Rock beach trail both located in the city center.

Jeju definitely made this vacation a summer to remember since it gave me the time to enjoy things on my own and simply marvel at nature's wonder. The entire week was just right since it provided enough time for me to explore the entire island on my own pace minus the hassle of always rushing from one location to the next. Yes, transportation was a challenge but it's still possible to tour around provided you map your itinerary well and choose your destinations wisely since you don't really have to visit everything that the travel sites recommend. Customize your own travel plan based on what really interests you.

Thank you Jeju for satisfying my wanderlust, helping me discover my hidden physical strengths and for proving once again that I'm capable enough to travel alone. It's ironic how someone who likes travelling so much be also directionally-challenged; so thank you naver and google maps for being my travel buddies. This is the reason why I always consider every successful solo travel as a personal accomplishment.

Now I know why Jeju is really considered a paradise, and this time I can definitely confirm that the stories were not overrated. I will surely come back to this island ready to make a new set of stories to tell. ;)




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